Over the summer of 2023 I set out to do the longest backpacking trip I had ever done, and I was going to do it alone. After looking over several of the popular backpacking trails taking roughly two weeks to complete, I ended up choosing the Tahoe Rim Trail. Located on the Nevada-California border, this roughly 176 mile trail traverses through the mountains around the entirety of Lake Tahoe. Optimistically, my goal was to complete it in anywhere from 12 to 14 days, but my body was only able to take me 11 days and 100 miles. It was a trip of highs and lows, elation and pain. Got to meet some amazing, inspiring people, and was thoroughly humbled. I learned so much from this experience, and will return in the future to finish.
After flying in to Reno from Austin, taking an uber to REI to buy my fuel, and taking another uber to the trailhead, I started out on the trail in high spirits. I was in no rush, taking my time to stop at all the educational signs, and enjoy the beauty of the Tahoe Meadows.
The boulders of granite are grounded
Their features are weathered and rounded
Through ages of time
Among the tall pines
Not a note have they ever sounded
The lake a deep blue in the distance
Prompts the hiker to strengthen his stance
When tired with woes
Water glimmers below
The ultimate aid for persistence
I had gone to bed before the sun had set, and I woke up before it rose. I was already sore, and wondered why I was there. The day was outlined by friendly faces, gorgeous views, and more practice living out on the trail. It was quite the dry section, and I had to add some mileage at the end of the day to get water for dinner and the next day.
I once thought they provide no assistance
But rather just offer resistance
Seeing no use
I wished to see them cut loose
But when the ascent came into sight
Body aching and mind full of fright
I put one in each hand
And swiftly rose through the land
Impressed by the help I received
Much more than i once perceived
Grateful to have them around
And not left behind on the ground
I say oh poles I adore you
Without you id be sorer soon
In climbs and descents
Youve helped me every day since
To steady my gait
Together we’re great
I hope we never part ways
For the rest of our hikes and the rest of our days
Now thoroughly exhausted, I started the day with another climb. My calves were incredibly tight, shortening my steps and causing frequent breaks. I tried a new strategy: the midday siesta. Finding a nice spot under a tree with a great view of Lake Tahoe, I laid out my tarp and sleeping pad, enjoyed a special lunch, and took a necessary nap. It was here I noticed I had service and decided to check the status of my food shipments, only to find that both of them were not kept for pickup! Honestly, this got me pretty upset, and I felt unsure of what my options were because I wanted to stick to my original plan. By the end of the day I basically collapsed into camp and decided to figure it out in the morning.
Emotions move through me like waves
I can ride them if i want, carving back and forth in bliss or in rage
Washing up on a white sanded beach
Crashing into rocky shores
I may let them pass, though it is hard to pass up a good wave
The morning gifted me a fresh mind to figure out how I would get back on trail with a bear canister full of food. I walked less than two miles from camp to the Tramway Market. I realized the options were not going to be sufficient and I was too far to the nearest grocery store to walk, so I decided to start looking at Ubers. Over $100. Okay I'll download Lyft. $30. On to SafeWay I go. Before I left, I ran into Dash Rainbow, a woman who had been hiking the PCT, but decided to hike the entire TRT as a fun detour. She told me I would need a permit for Desolation Wilderness, which I did not have because online they had sold out. However, she said I could go in person to the USFS office in town and they would be happy to give me one. They day was becoming more complicated, but it was going to be vital for me to continue properly.
Plans we make are changed
Altered but not yet broken
The path is still there
What a day. One of the most strenuous days of the trip, but I had so much fun the entire time. I crossed the border into California and trekked all the way up to Star Lake to take a siesta. I was full of energy, singing and talking to myself all the way to one of the greatest campsites I've ever been blessed with.
moments of silence separate songs
moving swiftly through slopes
yet refrained gently
like a chorus of whispers
I woke up tired. I didn't have enough water to cook breakfast, so I just ate some dry snacks to start the day. This was a mistake. The 9 miles I hiked were harder than the 16 I had done the day before. I hobbled into the trailhead and was greeted by two singing, smiling hikers named Happy and Tague. I was in rough shape, unsure of what to do next, and they both encouraged me to take a zero day in town and stay at this hostel there. I noticed they were hiking with a ukulele and we sang some songs together. They offered me a ride into town but I declined, though I ended up hitching a ride myself about an hour later. As luck would have it, I ended up running into them on the street. That's some trail magic right there.
Took a couple days in the mountains
The views that Ive seen are astoundin
But pretty soon I ran out of water
Walked a little further then I saw her
Suffering from dehydration
She offered me her sweet libations
I said can I see you more often
Her boyfriend said that's gonna be a problem!
South Lake Tahoe has an amazing free public bus system that I utilized heavily during my stay there. I got up early to journey to Heidi's, where I feasted on a giant plate of biscuits and gravy, eggs, and sausage. Then I slept more. I added another night at the hostel. I began planning my next moves. The trail would see my face once again, after another night's rest in a real bed.
Its not a loss in pride or loss in hope
A day to rest the body is in need
To let the spirit breathe and mind to cope
A day to slow the pace and plant the seed
And giving space will make more room for growth
The sun cant bring the day unless it sets
Before a journey starts recite this oath
I need not take great risks and make poor bets
For time doth not run out despite a wait
A life is long enough to sail the seas
If mountains, rivers, canyons call to fate
Or rather willed to sit still with the trees
The tide that takes you out will pull you in
Take time for rest to start new and begin
My plan was to spend most of the day resting in town, and to get back on the trail in the evening with just enough time to hike the 3 miles to Round Lake and set up camp before dark. My method of execution consisted of sleeping until checkout, visiting the beach, and taking a lyft to the trailhead around 5:30pm. I made it to Round Lake just before sunset, and was happy to be back out on the trail, despite the swarms of mosquitoes I began to encounter.
around, above, ahead, behind and below
flying, darting, landing, biting
armies of endless ranks persistent, encroaching
fueled by the same life force of all living things, they thrive and multiply
how do they justify their assault, their tirade, their reign of terror
what in the end do they give after they take and they take and they take
robbing joy, peace, calm, serenity from life around them
for shame for shame, perhaps they bring balance to the world
a comedy of turning potential paradise into frantic, chaotic dystopia
I met a guy named Cory who was doing the TRT in only 7 days. He had no tent, no stove, and no bear cannister. However, he did have TWO things of bug spray. He was hiking the opposite direction as me and warned me of the mosquitoes I was about to encounter. When you run into a Cory on the trail, you listen to him. I didn't have any bug spray, and he gave me one of his.
My pack
Weighing me down
Yet giving me comfort
Getting lighter each day, I grow
Stronger
Tahoe
Cold, clear water
Quiet, dry mountain air
Lush, green meadows, butterflies dance
Pristine
This was the day I had been waiting for since I had seen the snowy peaks across the lake since my first day on the trail. To arrive in Desolation Wilderness and experience the alpine lakes, the exposed granite, and to be surprised by this mysterious section of the trail. And experience I did, seeing some of the most beautiful country I have ever seen.
Gilmoooooooooorrreee
Where are you Gilmore?
Gilmoooooooooorrreee
I know you’re out there
Reveal yourself to me, Gilmore!!!
Gilmore Gilmore Gilmore
You’re a crook, a coward, a liar, a cheat
a carpetbagger, a swindler, and a thief
Gilmoooooooooorrreee
Gilmoooooooooorrreee
Gilmoooooooooorrreee
Another new day, another morning ascent. Slow and steady, I made my way up Dick's Pass toward Dick's Lake. Surprisingly, the ascent wasn't a problem, but as I made my way down toward the lake, a horrible pain started in my right calf and around my right shin. It was sudden and I could not walk normally. I made my way to Dick's Lake and decided to rest a few hours to see if it would go away. It did not! So sadly, I decided that it was going to be my last day on the trail, and I grit my teeth for the 5 miles I had to hike to get to the highway.
Blessed grateful content
Humbled inspired amazed
Beaten sore drained
Thoughtful learned hopeful
| New Gear | $544 |
| Trail Food (Shipped from Texas) | $223 |
| USPS Shipping | $63 |
| Trail Food (Bought in Tahoe) | $138 |
| Restaurants | $115 |
| Rideshare | $193 |
| Hostel | $91 |
| Misc. | $45 |
| Total | $1412 |